Sector guidance

    EmpCo for the fashion and textile sector

    From ACM (H&M, Decathlon) to CMA (ASOS, Boohoo, Asda) to AGCM/DGCCRF (SHEIN) to Adidas — fashion is where EmpCo lands on the most exposed ground.

    6 min readUpdated 2026-05-17
    Summary

    No sector has accumulated more greenwashing enforcement than fashion. EmpCo now hits a vocabulary — "conscious", "responsible", "sustainable collection", "more sustainable materials" — that is already in regulators' sights.

    Where the risks concentrate

    • Materials claims — "recycled polyester", "organic cotton" must be specific, scoped and tied to recognised certification (GRS, OCS, GOTS, FSC for cellulosics).
    • Whole-collection claims — calling a line "sustainable" when only some items qualify triggers Annex I point 4b. H&M discontinued the 12-year Conscious Choice collection in September 2023 — the precedent is now settled.
    • Brand-owned labels and icons — "Our Eco Choice" badges fail Annex I point 2a unless they meet Article 2(r). Use FSC, GOTS, Bluesign or recognised Type I instead.
    • Climate ambitions and offsetting — "Net zero by 2050" needs a published, time-bound, independently verified implementation plan. "Carbon-neutral T-shirt" at product level is banned outright when offset-based.
    • Durability and reparability — EmpCo and the Right to Repair Directive (2024/1799) bring durability into B2C duties. Garment longevity claims and repair services must be substantiated.

    A practical fix sequence

    1. Retire generic adjectives without recognised performance evidence.
    2. Re-scope or rename collection-level "sustainable" lines.
    3. Replace internal sustainability badges with recognised certifications.
    4. Restructure carbon-neutral product claims around value-chain reductions and contribution language.
    5. Build a defensible transition plan with independent verification for future climate ambitions.
    6. Align supplier contracts so claim evidence flows up the chain on demand.

    The UK CMA's 2024 undertakings with ASOS, Boohoo and Asda are the operational blueprint: accurate and clear claims, banned vague terms, misleading natural imagery prohibited, targets requiring dates and strategies, internal policies, supplier due diligence, training, product spot checks and regular reporting.

    Citations: ACM commitments H&M and Decathlon (Sept 2022); CMA undertakings ASOS/Boohoo/Asda (March 2024); AGCM SHEIN (2024); DGCCRF SHEIN penalties (2025); LG Nuremberg-Fürth v Adidas (March 2025); Forbrukertilsynet on Higg MSI.

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